So for those of you who know me, you know that a little over a year ago I found a hobby I'm really passionate about. I absolutely love rock climbing and try to go as often as possible. Especially after Kevin left, climbing became therapeutic. Having something to really pour my energy into helped me get my mind off of anything else going on.
But back to the lead test - In rock climbing, there are 3 main ways to climb. The most familiar method is called top roping. This is were a rope is hanging from the top of the wall, and you have a person at the other end of the rope keeping it taught in case you fall. Another popular method is called bouldering. Typically, the wall is no higher than 10-12 feet and you climb above a padded mat. If you fall, you fall onto the mat below. The third method, which is commonly used outdoors (I climb in a gym), is called lead climbing. With lead climbing, you carry a rope up with you and clip to anchors (called a quickdraw) along the wall. If you fall, you will fall at least as far as the last clip you made, and typically several feet farther than that.
Because of the safety issues and complications with how far you can fall, gyms typically test you rigorously on your climbing technique. They want to see that you climb and clip safely as it is easy to get your legs tangled in the rope, clip incorrectly, etc. Any of these things can have pretty bad results, from having you flip upside down when you fall, to having some of your clips come undone.
However, the biggest test is the fall... like I said, if you fall lead climbing, you fall at least as far as your last clip. However, you probably have some extra rope and there is some reaction time from your belayer which means your fall is likely to be around 5-15 ft. Also, the belayer tends to be pulled up into the air a few feet. This tends to freak some people out.
So... now that you have a short history of rock climbing (sorry if you knew all of this already, I'm trying to cater to all sorts of audiences), let me tell you my story.
Shortly after I started climbing, I got my friend Eddy into it. Ever since then, the two of us have constantly pushed each other to improve our climbing. From signing onto competitions to comparing routes that we've done, we've definitely helped eachother push our limits. So, when Eddy told me we were learning how to lead climb, I knew I had to do it.
We'd been learn lead climbing tips and practicing "mock leading" (taking a rope up with you as if you are lead climbing, but being tied into the top rope the whole time) for a couple of weeks when Eddy told me we were going to take the lead climbing test that week because they set up an easy route for it and he knew someone who passed it on the first try.
So, we got to the gym, and did a little not-so-great mock leading, but decided to take the test anyways. Somehow it was decided that I would go first. I think it was possibly because I really wasn't afraid of the fall, but more skeptical about my ability to do the climb without falling as it was one that required more upper body strength. I did the climb, but my nerves got the best of me and I was shaking a lot of the way up. I got to the last overhang, made my clip and then called down to Eddy that I was going to fall. I let go and it wasn't so bad. However, in terms of the test - automatic FAIL.
Eddy climbed next and I had to belay him. The process was fairly smooth, however I had some room for improvement. Eddy made it past the overhang but then missed a clip resulting in an automatic fail as well. Now came the part I was more afraid of... rising into the air when Eddy fell. The rising itself wasn't too bad but it is hard to hold the rope and lower as you're more sensitive to the weight difference on a lead rope.
The lead test has continued to be my Achilles heel over the past few weeks. Tries 2-3 had similar results (i.e. not being able to finish the route) and try 4 was even more devastating. I finished the climb, but the tester didn't like my belaying. Ironically, he dinged me for following the advice I'd received on another test. The worst part was, I hurt my ankle and foot on both the fall and when I rose as Eddy fell. It sucks being hurt and not being able to climb for a few days, but it would have been worth it if I'd passed.
Oh well... 5th times a charm?
No comments:
Post a Comment